When Installing a Soapstone Countertop

•  Make sure any edge that will be a finished edge is cut straight and clean, especially when it will be against a finished product such as a wood panel.

•  Counters without a backsplash will need to have a template made to guarantee accuracy and allow for the soapstone to meet up with the finished wall.

•  When installing a three-sided square with a finished wood side, wall side, and seam, it is necessary to make a template of the area. The template will ensure close, accurate seams.

•  Even though it is standard practice to add a 1” overhang to the front finished edge of the countertop, actually measure for 1 1/4” because some cabinets can jutt out more than others.

•  Spot caulk on top of the cabinets when applying the countertop to keep it in place.

•  Adding a small amount of blue and black tinting to the epoxy will make any seams blend into the stone after it is oiled. Before you apply the tinted epoxy at the seam areas, place tape along each edge of the counter where the seams will meet. After the epoxy has set, you can pull off the tape. This will make for less epoxy residue on the stone and minimal “clean-up” sanding.

•  Optimally, cabinets should be level. If not, insert wooden shims every 6 inches into any voids that result from unlevel cabinets.

•  Angle braces are recommended for areas where the stone will overhang the cabinets by 10 inches or more.

•  Always sand the bottom edge of the stone so that there are no sharp edges that can scratch or dent furniture.

•  When cutting out the area for a drop-in sink, cut to the exact size of the sink and then adjust any tight areas by sanding. This will allow the sink to easily drop in to the area.

•  Check for the type and make of the oven or range, as some ranges need to be tucked under the sides of the countertop. In this case, you will need to add an extra 3/8” to each side of the countertop area before cutting the stone. Adjustments can then be made as needed.